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Nepal is a diverse country with around 125 different
ethnic groups and 123 different languages. Before I
arrived, I assumed everyone was Nepali and spoke
Nepalese. While that is kind of true, there are a
variety of different ethnic groups. Further, among each
ethnic group there are subgroups. I’ve been lucky enough
to make friends belonging to all different ethnicities,
and each one speaks about their heritage with pride. I
wanted to shed some light on all of the different
groups, so I’ll be starting a series about the different
ethnicities within Nepal. This one, I’m happy to
announce, is about the Newari Caste which is dominant in
the Kathmandu Valley.
I
choose to write about the Newar caste because I spend
most of my time in Kathmandu. With the only
international airport, it’s the first place most
tourists experience, and it’s the capital of the
country. Not to mention, a large majority of my friends
are Newari and have agreed to answer all of my
questions. A special shout out to them for taking the
time to share their culture with me and my readers.
Who are Newari people and where did they originate?
Newari people are a mix of Indo-Aryan and Tibeto-Burman
ethnicities. The Indo-Aryan groups came from India and
simulated into the existing Tibeto-Burman culture. While
the original language and culture survived, the
Indo-Aryans brought over Hinduism and the social
structure of the caste system. Newars are now the sixth
largest ethnicity in Nepal.
What
festivals are unique to Newari culture?
Mha Puja
Mha Puja is a day celebrated during the popular Tihar
festival. While Tihar is celebrated by most of Nepal,
Mha Puja is only celebrated by Newari. During Tihar,
each day represents a different thing. Most foreigners
have seen viral photos of dogs being worshipped, however
there is also a day for crows, cows, and brothers. In
Newar culture, one day is dedicated to oneself and is
called mha puja or “self-worship day.” This generally
takes place in November. Each person cleans themselves,
their home, makes beautiful mandala designs on the
ground, and celebrates.
Gai Jatra
Gai Jatra, also known as the “cow festival,” is another
Newar festival. If a family member passed away during
that calendar year, then young children dress up in
their honor and walk down the streets and gather in
Durbar Square in remembrance. On the way, strangers will
give them treats or candy. It’s not a somber day, but
it’s also not extremely cheerful. It’s a way to show
that many have lost family and that no one is alone. The
day is meant to comfort those who have experienced loss.
In Hindu culture, cows are gods, so paper cutouts of
cows will be made to carry during the festival. Gai
Jatra takes place around September or October.
Indra Jatra
Indra Jatra is another Newari festival which is popular
in Kathmandu. It usually falls in September and marks
the beginning of Autumn and the upcoming festivals of
Dashain and Tihar. You’ve got to love a culture that has
a festival to celebrate upcoming festivals. During Indra
Jatra, you can witness the famous Kumari (Living
Goddess) in her chariot. At night, there are masked
dancers in the streets who dance to the music of
drummers. The festival lasts 8 days!
What
are the best Newar restaurants?
Finding good authentic cuisine in another country can be
hard. Luckily my friends recommended a few different
places to try. Bhumi is located in Lazimpat, Kathmandu. Newa
Lahana and Sasaa Newari Restaurant are both located in
Kirtipur. Haarati Newa Restaurant is just north of
Thamel. Temple View is located in Bhaktapur Durbar
Square. Last but not least, Honacha is located in Patan
right next to Durbar Square. What Newari food should
everyone try?
Samay Baji
Samay Baji is a popular Newari dish during festivals and
feasts. It’s not an everyday meal, but is great to try
if you want to experience Newari culture. It’s a plate
full of a variety of food (similar to dal baht)
including bara (type of bread), beaten rice, potato
curry, soy beans, boiled egg, and usually a very spicy
meat (often buffalo).
Haku Choila
Haku Choila is grilled buffalo meat. You can also try
chicken which is my favorite. This is considered a
snack, although for me it always feels like a full meal.
It’s extremely spicy and is often served with beaten
rice.
Chatamari
Chatamari is the Newari version of pizza. I think it’s a
bit more like a savory crepe. It’s good to order as an
appetizer and share with friends. It consists of a thin
rice crepe and toppings which vary from vegetable to
minced meat.
Yomari
Yomari is a dumpling with a sweet filling inside. I
actually have not had the chance to try one, but now
it’s on my list of things to order when I get back to
Kathmandu. I’ve seen them on menus but never really knew
what they were. This can be eaten as a snack or dessert.
Bara
Bara is a type of savory bread and is described as a
Nepali pancake. It’s made from lentil flour making it a
healthy choice. You can get different types of bara like
egg bara, chicken bara, or buffalo bara. It’s perfect
for dipping in curries or eating as a side dish or
snack.
Kwati
Kwati is actually my favorite Newari food. It’s a five
bean soup/curry. I tried it at Bhumi restaurant and
really loved it. I could eat it as a soup or dip some
egg bara in it. It has a great flavor and was perfect to
order along with other snacks.
Are there stereotypes about Newari people?
It’s a popular belief that Newari people love to party.
Considering how there’s a festival to celebrate the
upcoming festivals, it’s not too hard to see why this
stereotype exists. Even a small reason to celebrate can
turn into an epic party in Newari culture.
I’ve also been told that Newari people can be considered
a bit snobbish although I’d prefer the word proud.
Newari people are proud of their culture and love to
share it with others. Although some might consider this
a negative or see it as bragging, I actually appreciate
it. They’ve kept their traditions and cultures alive for
a thousand years. Being proud to share their culture
with others helps preserve it.
What
does Newari music sound like?
Since Nepali is the national language of Nepal, and most
people speak Hindi or English as a second language,
Newari is not widely spoken anymore. Newari also has
different dialects and someone who speaks Newari in
Patan may not easily understand someone who speaks
Newari in Bhaktapur. Because of this, Newari music isn’t
exactly mainstream. That being said, you can check out
these two songs on YouTube to get a feel for it. |
About Nepal